The Myth of Modesty: How Indian Culture Was Shaped by Foreign Rule

I've always wondered how Indian women managed to endure such uncomfortable attire—tight blouses, long saris, heavy jewellery—especially in our hot and humid climate. It seemed impractical and out of place, considering how people in other parts of the world dress comfortably according to their climate. How is it that, for generations, Indian women have worn these uncomfortable clothes without questioning them? This curiosity led me to dig deeper, and what I discovered was quite surprising.

When we think of traditional Indian clothing, we often picture women fully draped in saris, their bodies modestly concealed, and their heads covered. But what if I told you that what we consider "traditional" today is actually a product of centuries of foreign influence? The idea that Indian women have always covered themselves completely, even in the scorching heat, is a misconception born from the customs imposed during the Mughal and British periods.

The True Tradition of Indian Attire

Before the arrival of the Mughals and the British, Indian women dressed in ways that were much more suited to our climate and far more comfortable. The sari, a garment deeply embedded in Indian culture, was traditionally draped in ways that often left the midriff and back exposed—this wasn’t considered immodest but practical and culturally accepted. The practice of wearing a blouse or petticoat with the sari only became widespread later, influenced by Victorian British norms and Mughal customs that emphasized covering the body.

Historically, Indian women wore garments made from natural fibres like cotton and silk, which were lightweight, breathable, and comfortable—perfect for the hot and humid climate. These materials allowed the body to stay cool and the sari to be draped easily and elegantly. The embellishments on these saris were usually subtle, such as light zari work or simple hand embroidery, which added beauty without compromising comfort. 

The Impact of Foreign Rule on Indian Attire

The Mughal empire introduced Persian and Islamic customs, including the practice of veiling (purdah) among women. Initially limited to the Muslim elite, this practice gradually spread across regions and religions, influencing Hindu practices as well. The purdah system brought in the idea that a woman’s modesty was tied to how much of her body she covered—a concept that was foreign to the Indian subcontinent.

When the British colonized India, they reinforced these ideas with their Victorian norms, which emphasized modesty and propriety. This led to the widespread adoption of blouses and petticoats under the sari, as the British viewed traditional Indian styles as inappropriate. Over time, these influences solidified, and the conservative style of dress became normalized, altering what we now mistakenly view as traditional.

The Evolution to Modern Times

In contrast to the natural, comfortable fabrics of the past, many modern saris are made from synthetic materials like polyester or nylon, which are less breathable and can feel uncomfortable, especially in warm weather. These saris often feature heavy embroidery and synthetic embellishments that add to their weight and stiffness, making them more cumbersome to wear. This shift towards synthetic, heavily adorned saris is a recent development, yet they are often mistaken as “traditional” Indian attire.

Reclaiming Comfort and Identity

Understanding these historical shifts makes it clear that covering the body completely in India’s hot climate wasn’t originally part of our tradition. It was a cultural imposition that gradually became accepted as the norm. Ancient Indian attire was much more relaxed, practical, and suited to the climate, allowing for personal comfort and expression.

Today, as we rediscover our cultural roots, it’s important to recognize that many of the norms we follow were imposed upon us. What we often accept as "Indian tradition" is actually a blend of foreign customs layered over our original practices. It’s time to question these norms and reclaim a more authentic, comfortable, and climate-appropriate way of dressing—one that truly reflects our heritage and identity.

References:

- Kosambi, D.D. "The Culture and Civilization of Ancient India in Historical Outline." (Routledge, 1965).

- Bhatia, Tejaswini. "Dressing the Colonized Body: Modernity, Clothing, and Indian Women." (Cambridge University Press, 2012).

- Jain, Jyotindra. "Indian Ethnography and Art: The Impact of Mughal and Colonial Rule." (National Museum, New Delhi, 2004).

- Cohn, Bernard S. "Colonialism and Its Forms of Knowledge: The British in India." (Princeton University Press, 1996).